Aventino

The hours it belongs to

Late night

Rome refuses to be optimised. The stones outlast the schedule. StoryOS composes Rome by giving you fewer things, better hours — the Caravaggio at 9:15, the Testaccio table at 21:30, the walk in between with nothing on it.

How to be here

Espresso is a verb, not a noun. Meals are unhurried. Churches close at lunch — plan around, not through.

Getting there

Rome is a walking city with a Metro underneath. Two stops solve most days; the rest is the map in your feet.

Through the year

• SpringApr–May — The pink hour on the Tiber.
• AutumnSep–Oct — The Roman autumn is the true summer.